Tuesday, June 27, 2023

Gemstone Color Enhancements

 We at Gesner Estate Jewelry do not sell diamonds that have been color enhanced. On the rare occasion that we acquire a diamond that has been color enhanced, that clarity enhancement will be disclosed to the buyer. These articles are here to help educate potential buyers to make the best possible decision with their gemstone purchasing.

 

Color Enhancements

 

When colored gemstones are treated artificially, we say that they have been enhanced. Most colored gemstones have been enhanced. Stones may be treated while still in their rough crystal form or after they have been cut into polished gemstones. Colored stones are enhanced for four reasons:

§  To intensify, deepen and/or make the color more uniform

§  To remove a modifying color, leaving the rarer hue more visible

§  To mask or eliminate unsightly inclusions

§  To stabilize the structure of the gemstone

 

All treatments of colored gemstones must be disclosed to the buyer, so consumers can make informed decisions about the value of their stones before they purchase. All enhancements affect the cost of colored stones, some by a little, others by a lot. Because most colored gemstones are enhanced, those that are not command premium prices.

 

There are many degrees of enhancements. Some alter color just a bit, while others are so extensive they create almost the full color of the polished gem. Some mask only a few unsightly inclusions, while others “burn out” an entire field of internal markings, leaving the stone nearly flawless — something that is fairly rare in nature. Any enhancements can be detected by experienced gemologists with standard laboratory tools. Other enhancements require advanced laboratory identification. Some enhancements are permanent; others are temporary, allowing a strong color to fade or inclusions to re-appear under certain circumstances. Your jeweler can provide an independent laboratory document identifying any enhancement to the stone. This is especially important for the purchase of an expensive ruby, emerald or sapphire. Customers should understand how this enhancement affects a stone’s quality, current cost and potential future value, especially if the treatment may not be permanent.

Coating

Surface coating is the process of adding a thin layer of colored foreign material to all or part of a gemstone’s surface, with the intent of either masking the underlying body color or enhancing a desirable color. Most often, this coating is applied to the pavilion and/or girdle of the diamond; the way that light refracts as it passes through a diamond creates the illusion of uniform color distribution.

The durability of diamond coatings vary considerably, depending on materials used and methods of coating applied. Original coating techniques date far back in history when a simple paint or ink was applied to the girdle of a diamond, easily removed by rubbing with a solvent. Most recent advances in technology employ a very thin optical or chemical film which is more durable, but still readily worn away by heat, scratching, abrasion, polishing, and just everyday wear.

In terms of detection, coated diamonds are identified without much difficulty by a trained gemologist in a laboratory.

Irradiation

Irradiation is the process of exposing diamonds to various types of high-energy particles in a nuclear reactor, which slam into the diamond and become embedded in its matrix, in order to change their color. Irradiation with these high-energy particles alters the internal atomic structure of the diamond, and produces ‘color centers’. Color centers are electronic defects in the diamond’s crystal structure, which change the way a diamond absorbs light and therefore its color. During the irradiation process, diamonds are bombarded with gamma rays, neutrons, protons, deuterons, or electrons.

The effects of these different methods of irradiating a diamond vary; each process produces a different kind of radiation, with different energies and degrees of penetration through a diamond. In other words, the resulting color depends on the type of irradiation selected and the length of exposure time. Most often, irradiated diamonds are subsequently annealed to further modify their color into the desired hue, a process described in the following section.

Irradiated diamonds are very difficult to identify using standard gemological equipment; advanced testing by a recognized laboratory is thus imperative.

Annealing

Annealing is the process of slow heating diamonds at moderate temperatures to deepen, or further alter, the color of a diamond most often after irradiation. Annealing will frequently enhance a colored diamond to brighter shades of yellow, orange, or pink. The resulting colors are dependent on the original diamond’s composition, temperature and length of annealing process.

Website: https://gesner.com/blogs/gem-indentification/gemstone-color-enhancements 

Check out our Art Deco Engagement Rings:

https://gesner.com/collections/antique-vintage-engagement-rings

Antique wedding rings:

https://gesner.com/collections/antique-vintage-wedding-rings-bands


Monday, March 27, 2023

Jewelry Definitions

 When selecting the vintage engagement ring and wedding bands for yourself and your fiancĂ©e, it is important to know a little something about jewelry terminology.


Settings

Bezel Setting



The diamond sits on a plate of platinum or gold and is surrounded by a wall of metal that is perpendicular to the plate.

Prong Setting



Prong setting is different from bezel setting in that equal parts of the bezel are removed leaving prongs to cover the edge of the diamond. The Tiffany solitaire setting is prong set.

Bead Setting



Bead setting is different from prong setting in that small beads of platinum or gold are pushed over the edge to secure the diamond. Pave setting is bead setting over an expanded area of diamonds.

Channel Setting



This is a procedure where diamonds are set side by side along a groove and are secured by hammering the sides of the channel wall over the edge of the diamonds.

Invisible Setting

Diamonds are set in such a way that no metal is showing. No prongs, beads, channels or bezels are used. Grooves in the diamond girdle are set into a metal framework below the surface giving the illusion of diamonds suspended without any metal around the diamond.

Parts of the Engagement Ring



Head

The head of the ring is the top of the ring, the prongs and setting that hold the diamond.

Shoulder

The shoulder is the top part of the band of the ring next to the head.

Shank

The shank is the lower part of the band of the ring.

Types of Metal

Platinum

Platinum is a metal that comes out of the ground pure and white. It is soft but tough and pliable. It is resistant to knocks and will last for generations.

Gold

Gold is mixed with other metals (alloys) to make it strong enough for jewelry. For instance, 14 karat gold is 14 part gold and 10 part alloys. White gold is yellow gold mixed with certain alloys such as zinc or nickel to make it white. It must be rhodium plated (a type of platinum plating) to cover any hint of yellow. Pure gold is 24 karat and is too soft for jewelry.

Ring Re-sizing

Ring resizing is done when a ring becomes too large or too tight. A ring is too large when it keeps falling off. It is too tight after weight gain, during pregnancy or after eating too much salt. When the ring is consistently too tight, it should be resized to make it more comfortable. Ring resizing does not hurt the ring.

Re-tipping

Retipping is a procedure where prongs have been broken and need to be replaced or retipped with the original metal for the safety of the diamond.

Engagement Ring



An engagement ring is the first ring given to the woman at the time of the proposal. It is typically a diamond engagement ring but the stone could be a colored gemstone as well.

Wedding Band



A wedding band is a band that is given at the time of the wedding. It can be made of platinum, gold or other durable metal.

Eternity Band

An eternity band is a wedding band that contains diamonds or colored gemstones that go all the way around the ring.

Anniversary Band

An anniversary band is a band with diamonds or gemstones that are contained on the top of the ring going half-way around. It can be used as a wedding band or can be given as a gift for an anniversary.

Carat

Carat has to do with the weight of the diamond. One hundred points equal one carat. For instance, a three quarter carat diamond is written .75ct.

Karat

Karat has to do with the measure of the purity of gold, fourteen karat (14kt) or eighteen karat (18kt).

Source: https://gesner.com/blogs/antique-jewelry/jewelry-definitions

Check out our Art Deco Engagement Rings: 

https://gesner.com/collections/antique-vintage-engagement-rings

Antique wedding rings:

https://gesner.com/collections/antique-vintage-wedding-rings-bands




Tuesday, January 17, 2023

The History of Birthstones

 The History of birthstones is believed to have gone back to the book of Exodus with the Breastplate of Aaron. It was a garment with twelve gemstones sewn into it that represented the twelve tribes of Israel. The gemstones were set in three rows of three gemstones. At that time the gemstones were “sardius, topaz and carbuncle; emerald, sapphire and diamond; ligure, agate and amethyst; beryl, onyx and jasper.

The connection between the Breastplate of Aaron and the twelve stones of the zodiac were written about by Favius Josephus (1st century A.D) and St. Jerome (5th century A.D.). It was believed that wearing the gemstone of your zodiac would bring good luck to the wearer and that the stone had special powers.

Scholars from the 18th century in Poland came up with the modern ideas of a birthstone for each month. The most well-known list of monthly birthstones came into being in 1912 by the National Association of Jewelers in the United States.

Since 1912, the monthly birthstones have remained the same until 2002 when tanzanite was added as the birthstone for December. December also has three birthstones designated for this month.

The current list of monthly gemstones is as follows:

January Garnet (dark red)

February Amethyst (purple)

March Aquamarine (pastel blue)

April Diamond

May Emerald (green)

June Pearl or Alexandrite (the color changing stone)

July Ruby (red)

August Peridot (light green)

September Sapphire (blue)

October Opal or pink tourmaline

November Citrine (yellow orange), yellow topaz

December Blue zircon, blue topaz, turquoise or tanzanite (bluish purple)

Source: https://gesner.com/blogs/gem-indentification/the-history-of-birthstones

Gesner Estate Jewelry: https://gesner.com/

Antique engagement rings: https://gesner.com/collections/antique-vintage-engagement-rings

Antique wedding rings: https://gesner.com/collections/antique-vintage-wedding-rings-bands