Art Deco Jewelry (1920-1939)

“Art Deco” as a term was coined in 1960 by art historian Bevis Hillier to describe the movement known as Style Moderne. The distinctive style of the 1920s and 30’s borrowed heavily from other Modernism movements of the time and was established as a distinct style by members of the French artist collective known as La Société des artistes décorateurs, following the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels held in Paris. Though birthed in France, Art Deco was almost entirely an American phenomenon, fueled by the decadence of “The Roaring Twenties.” The movement affected the decorative arts most profoundly, the commercial fields of architecture, graphic arts, industrial design, and jewelry design. The style is easily recognizable by the use of clean lines, trapezoidal shapes, stepped edges, and arched corners. Unlike the sinuous lines of Art Nouveau, Art Deco emphasized linearity and geometric form.

Art Deco .18ct. Diamond & 18K White Gold Antique Engagement – Fashion Ring

Artisans of Art Deco used symmetrical arrangements and repeated designs, often incorporating pyramids and stepped ziggurats. The movement was influenced by primitive motifs from ancient Aztec and Egyptian culture and tribal Africa. The discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922 sparked a new craze for Egyptian design, reinterpreting earlier Egyptian revival pieces from the late 19th century following the opening of the Suez Canal. Artifacts discovered in the tomb were reproduced in jewelry form, notably glazed ceramic pieces depicting scarabs, amulets, and the face mask of King Tut. Large jewelry firms, such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier, imitated the Egyptian style with great success. Increased travel abroad and the visits of maharajahs to European cities fueled the interest in exotic motifs.

Jewelry of the period reflected the “architectural” and “industrial” influences. New Technology was referenced and employed in the making of jewelry. The movement sought to combine the relentless proliferation of mass production with the style and sensitivity of art and design. In 1927 Cartier introduced its “Mystery Clocks” which hid the mechanical movements of the gears and the hands of the clock appeared to float on top of the face. Gemstones were cut in geometric shapes and paired with contrasting colors to form a bold statement. Light-colored gemstones were set with dark materials such as black onyx and Bakelite, a type of early plastic. “White jewelry”, similar to the platinum and diamond designs of Edwardian jewelry, debuted at the 1929 Exhibition at the Palais Galliera in Paris and was hugely popular throughout the 1930s. Metals such as platinum, white gold, and silver were used for their white appearance and set with diamonds.

Art Deco .45ct. Diamond & Platinum Antique Engagement – Fashion Ring – J35243

Like the dramatic change in female clothing and hairstyles, jewelry pieces also changed in form and function. The elaborate matching sets and tiaras of  Victorian times were out of style. Women wore long pendants, bold cocktail rings, multiple bangle bracelets, elaborately decorated accessories such as cigarette cases, and the double-clip brooch which could be worn together or taken apart and worn on lapels or belts.

The crash of 1929 greatly affected the progress of Art Deco. Jewelers innovatively incorporated less expensive materials such as Bakelite and coral or turquoise to create affordable jewelry for the mass market. As the Depression worsened and World War II broke out, Art Deco came to an end. An attempt was made to revive the style following the end of the war, but it never succeeded in producing the excitement or innovation Art Deco had inspired in the earlier decades. The Art Deco style has experienced multiple revivals in the past few decades and high-quality pieces of jewelry from the original period remain highly prized as collectibles.

Early Art Deco diamond engagement rings and jewelry were decorative and fancy in style with filigree which was often accented with synthetic sapphires or natural emeralds.  Price was not a consideration when creating jewelry.  Cocktail rings were in vogue.  This was a time of high fashion and elegant style.  Cocktail parties were the rage and everyone was trying to gracefully out do the other.

At the end of World War I, the Art Deco Period came into full force.  Women had entered the workforce and were standing more and more on their own two feet becoming more self-reliant and passionate.  With this new social order of prosperous people who thrived during the war, the Art Deco Period also known as the Roaring Twenties was off to a hearty start.

Coco Channel was known for its faux pearls and other jewelry during that time and, in fact, materials like plastic and paste were very popular when producing such vintage jewelry.

Egyptian Revival jewelry such as necklaces, for example, became more common after the discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb in 1923. Jewelry of the style boasted examples of serpents, pharaohs, and sphinxes in simple flat designs.

The Japanese also had an influence on Art Deco Jewelry and fashion.  Carvings of jade and coral were carved in bracelets, necklaces, and earrings.  Oriental garden scenes were very popular.

By 1930, the ornamental vintage engagement rings and jewelry gave way to a more geometric shape and style. Jewelry and architecture became modernized and plain. Simple brooches depicting streamlined automobiles, cruise ships, and planes were in style and were created in gold and rare gemstones. Costume jewelry used these streamlined themes as well.

Designers such as Tiffany, Boucheron and Harry Winston were well known then just as they are today.

Art Deco .60ct. Diamond Antique Engagement – Fashion Ring Platinum

Art Deco engagement rings, brooches, pendants, and bracelet designs followed the history of the time, such as the depression and World War II.  There is such a variety of jewelry produced during this historical time that you should find something special to your liking.

This Article is originally posted here: https://www.gesner.com/blog/art-deco-jewelry-1920-1939/ & https://www.gesner.com/blog/art-deco-period-1920-1935/

Antique Engagement Rings: https://gesner.com/antique-vintage-jewelry/engagement-rings

Antique Wedding Bands: https://gesner.com/antique-vintage-jewelry/wedding-bands

Estate Engagement Rings: https://gesner.com/estate-jewelry/engagement-rings

Gesner Estate Jewelry: https://gesner.com/

Edwardian Engagement Rings

 When it comes to Edwardian Jewelry, engagement rings have become some of the most coveted items with brides-to-be.  Ladies that value the elegance of the era can truly appreciate the design and attention to detail that distinguishes Edwardian rings from today’s more contemporary jewelry.   These neo-classical styles of the early 20th century make Edwardian engagement rings some of the most exciting pieces of jewelry for any woman to appreciate.

Value of Edwardian Style Engagement Rings

Whether you are looking to buy or sell an Edwardian engagement ring, you can be sure that you are dealing with something that is very special.  Gesner Estate Jewelry specializes in early 20th century Edwardian and Art Deco platinum and has a very large inventory to choose from.

If you are interested in selling your jewelry, you will definitely want to consider bringing it into one of our two locations in the Tampa Bay area.  Our associates will be very happy to evaluate your jewelry and make you a very fair offer. 

Types of Edwardian Engagement Rings

Even though Edwardian rings are hard to find, there are still many options when it comes to the various styles that one has to choose from.  Many of these elegantly hand-crafted rings offer a variety of settings and stones which make them extremely unique.  These Edwardian rings later become heirlooms due to their amazing detail and beauty.   Many hours of design and craftsmanship went into this jewelry and those efforts will be appreciated for years to come.

The value of a natural pearl & Edwardian antique pearl ring

A large natural pearl is considered the oldest and most valuable gemstone. When found, a single perfectly round natural pearl would be sold as a collector’s item because of its scarcity and considerable value. The larger the pearl, the more it is worth.

In 1520 B.C., a portion of a rare natural pearl was found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess. This information is not surprising because natural pearls are not only considered extremely valuable but have been known to symbolize humility and purity. 

Another example of the value of a single pearl is the historical fact that the Roman general, Vitellius, sold one of his mother’s pearls to fund an entire war. Hard to believe, but true!

This dainty and feminine natural Antique pearl and diamond ring is from the Edwardian time period, circa 1901-1914. It has a 3.8mm pearl and is surrounded by .33ct. T.W. of Rose Cut diamonds with SI clarity and G-H color. Furthermore, the shoulders of this ring have a leaf design with prong set diamonds. Crafted in Platinum and 14 karat yellow gold, this is a classic and elegant Antique Vintage pearl ring. A perfect addition to any woman’s jewelry wardrobe.

This article is Originally Posted here : 

https://www.gesner.com/blog/the-value-of-a-natural-pearl-edwardian-antique-pearl-ring/ &

https://www.gesner.com/blog/edwardian-engagement-rings/

Our Website: https://gesner.com/

Checkout our Antique & Vintage Jewelry : https://gesner.com/antique-vintage-jewelry

Buy Tips For Vintage Jewelry

 If you would like to purchase a piece of fine vintage jewelry, maybe a vintage engagement ring from the Edwardian period or a vintage brooch from the Art Nouveau period, you need only look for an estate jewelry store for exactly what you are looking for.

Estate jewelry is jewelry that has been previously owned. It could be vintage or contemporary. Vintage jewelry is jewelry that is 50 years old, so that would be from 1950 or before.

Vintage jewelry from the 1940’s or 1950’s is called Retro jewelry. These pieces are often in yellow, pink or green gold with large stone, swirls and or synthetic rubies and natural diamonds.

The Art Deco period from 1920-1935 contains some of the most fascinating jewelry you can find. Engagement rings, vintage brooches and other vintage jewelry were often made in platinum. Vintage engagement rings contained lots of filigree interspersed with delicate small diamonds. The center diamond was always a European cut or old mine cut. You would often time find synthetic sapphires, natural rubies or natural emeralds used as accents.

Brooches were also made with filigree, diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Often time, you can find a brooch that was used as a brooch or as a pendant. The back of the brooch contains a pin that goes just a little past the length of the brooch for use as a brooch and it would also hold a bail that could be flipped up for use as a necklace.

Dangle earrings were also popular during the Art Deco period. They contained diamonds, synthetic sapphires and natural rubies and emeralds. Bracelets had geometric shapes containing European cut diamonds and often time colored stones as accents.

The Art Nouveau period, which is my favorite time period for jewelry, lasted from 1890-1905. Most of the jewelry was made in gold with sensuous flowing lines. The Art Nouveau period created pieces of jewelry art using butterflies or dragonflies in flight, flowers, snakes or bats. This time was also known for using the shapes of a woman or a woman’s head with flowing hair. Plique a jour, a form of enameling, was also used. The gemstones used were pastel in color like moonstone, citrine, peridot and pearls.

These are just some of the vintage time period jewelry you could consider. You could also look for jewelry from the Edwardian period, 1901-1910 or the Victorian period, 1837-1901 as well. There is so much to pick from to add a different little something for every outfit you wear.

WHY BUY ANTIQUE JEWELRY?

You ask, “Why Buy Antique Jewelry?” Uniqueness is the simple answer. When purchasing antique vintage jewelry which is 50 years old or older, you are acquiring something from another time; something that may be rare and something that is definitely different from what you see in most jewelry stores. Consider perusing an Estate & Antique Jewelry Store, like ours. Estate Jewelry simply means previously owned. You will often come across that special Antique Jewelry find and maybe something from another time period that has specific unique characteristics.

The Victorian Era, c.1837-1901

A ring from the Victorian Era, c.1837-1901, could be in the shape of a serpent, crafted in gold with a center gemstone. Queen Victoria had a ring just like that with an emerald in the center as her engagement ring. 

The Edwardian Era, c. 1901-1914

The Edwardian Era, c. 1901-1914, was known for its delicate workmanship in platinum, the king of metals. Platinum is known for its durability and malleability. It is the metal of preference for Master Jewelers whose skills are needed to make the finest details on a jewelry item, like milgraining, which would look like a row of tiny dots. A diamond engagement ring may have characteristics like garlands, ribbons and lace and decorated with diamonds in the mounting. Fine metal piercings might also be found in a ring from this time period

The Art Nouveau Era, c. 1890-1915

The Art Nouveau Era, c. 1890-1915, was known for its use of designs such as leaves, flowers, bugs and the shape of a woman’s face with flowing hair.  Plique-a-jour was a type of see through enameling that was used in conjunction with the features described above. Yellow gold was more common during that era and it worked beautifully with stones such as aquamarine, peridot, pearls, opals and diamonds

The Art Deco Era, c. 1920-1935

The Art Deco Era, c. 1920-1935, diamond engagement rings were enhanced with meticulous filigree and intricate designs. Platinum was the metal of choice. As with the Edwardian, Victorian and Art Nouveau Era, the Art Deco Era also used hand fabrication vs. casting, into the early 1930’s, to make its most delicate and complicated pieces of jewelry.

The Retro Era, c. 1935-1950

The Retro Era, c. 1935-1950, was more well-known for its jewelry crafted in rose, yellow or green gold. Rings, for instance, were oversized and gemstones that were popular during that time were diamond, aquamarine, topaz, citrine, sapphire and often synthetic ruby

As you can see, antique jewelry is extremely unique and because of that, you may never see two jewelry items alike in your lifetime! To be sure, not many of your friends will have jewelry like yours when you purchase beautiful Antique jewelry! 

Art Deco Engagement Rings – Info to Know before you Buy

Gesner Estate Jewelry provides the finest jewelry at the lowest price possible. We specialize in antique & vintage gold and platinum jewelry from the turn of the 20th century to the late 1930s; however, our inventory of newer pieces in gold and platinum is also unsurpassed. We maintain an inventory of several thousand unique items. Every piece is in wonderful condition and uncommon in design. We do not sell reproduction jewelry or lab-created gems unless it has been very clearly stated in the item’s description.

We are a family-owned firm that has been in business since 1972. We are among the leaders in antique and estate jewelry. We welcome the opportunity to speak with you personally about ourselves and what we do. Please feel free to call us anytime at (727) 586-6000 or email us at gesner@gesner.com

We offer certified appraisal services from our G.I.A. graduate. Graydon Gesner has his Graduate Gemology Degree, Accredited Jewelry Professional Degree, and the G.I.A. Pearl Grading Lab Degree. These studies were accomplished at the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.), located at the Carlsbad, California campus which is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones, and pearls. He was an on-campus student and excelled in all phases of his studies. Out of 11 G.I.A. campus locations worldwide, Carlsbad, California is the G.I.A. World Headquarters that brings students from all over the world. Please call the Tampa store at (813) 282-1008, or email Graydon at graydongems@gmail.com to schedule your appointment to have your jewelry professionally appraised. Graydon’s website can be seen at www.gesnerappraisalservices.com.

Art Deco Engagement Rings

“Pure Art Deco” are the words from our Graduate Gemologist, Graydon Gesner, when describing this fabulous Ruby and Diamond Art Deco Engagement or Fashion ring. ” I love the calibrated rubies, the large European cut diamond, and the geometric design”, he says.

This captivating Art Deco ring, crafted in platinum, features a center 1.25 carat approx. Old European cut diamond with SI1 clarity and J color. It is surrounded, in a diamond shape, with approx. 1.00 carat approx. total weight of Antique Square Cut Natural Red Rubies.  It is further decorated with 1.50 carat approx. total weight of Single and European Cut diamonds. In addition, the gallery is pierced & milgrained and is an impressive and sparkling example of the Roaring 20’s!

Art Deco .73ct. Diamond Antique Engagement Ring Platinum

Wow! What a beauty. This month’s Gemologist Jewelry Pick of the Month is this captivating Antique Diamond Engagement Ring with ” a flowing curved tiered design very indicative of the Art Deco Era”.

This Antique Diamond Engagement Ring features .73ct Apx. European Cut Diamond with fantastic quality, VVS2 clarity, and H color.  A bright, white, scintillating diamond with a very, very slightly included diamond.  You would need an educated eye and a jeweler’s loupe or microscope to see any inclusion.  In addition, there are .50ct Apx. T.W. of Single and Transitional Cut Diamonds with VS2-SI1 clarity and G-H color.  It is crafted in platinum, the king of metals, as you know.  Your very best jewelry is made in platinum or 18 karat gold. You can find this blindingly beautiful Antique Art Deco Diamond Engagement Ring in our Tampa store with a retail price of $7,795.