Buy Tips For Vintage Jewelry

 If you would like to purchase a piece of fine vintage jewelry, maybe a vintage engagement ring from the Edwardian period or a vintage brooch from the Art Nouveau period, you need only look for an estate jewelry store for exactly what you are looking for.

Estate jewelry is jewelry that has been previously owned. It could be vintage or contemporary. Vintage jewelry is jewelry that is 50 years old, so that would be from 1950 or before.

Vintage jewelry from the 1940’s or 1950’s is called Retro jewelry. These pieces are often in yellow, pink or green gold with large stone, swirls and or synthetic rubies and natural diamonds.

The Art Deco period from 1920-1935 contains some of the most fascinating jewelry you can find. Engagement rings, vintage brooches and other vintage jewelry were often made in platinum. Vintage engagement rings contained lots of filigree interspersed with delicate small diamonds. The center diamond was always a European cut or old mine cut. You would often time find synthetic sapphires, natural rubies or natural emeralds used as accents.

Brooches were also made with filigree, diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Often time, you can find a brooch that was used as a brooch or as a pendant. The back of the brooch contains a pin that goes just a little past the length of the brooch for use as a brooch and it would also hold a bail that could be flipped up for use as a necklace.

Dangle earrings were also popular during the Art Deco period. They contained diamonds, synthetic sapphires and natural rubies and emeralds. Bracelets had geometric shapes containing European cut diamonds and often time colored stones as accents.

The Art Nouveau period, which is my favorite time period for jewelry, lasted from 1890-1905. Most of the jewelry was made in gold with sensuous flowing lines. The Art Nouveau period created pieces of jewelry art using butterflies or dragonflies in flight, flowers, snakes or bats. This time was also known for using the shapes of a woman or a woman’s head with flowing hair. Plique a jour, a form of enameling, was also used. The gemstones used were pastel in color like moonstone, citrine, peridot and pearls.

These are just some of the vintage time period jewelry you could consider. You could also look for jewelry from the Edwardian period, 1901-1910 or the Victorian period, 1837-1901 as well. There is so much to pick from to add a different little something for every outfit you wear.

All About Jewelry & Its Definition

 When selecting the vintage engagement ring and wedding bands for yourself and your fiancée, it is important to know a little something about jewelry terminology.

Settings

Bezel Setting

The diamond sits on a plate of platinum or gold and is surrounded by a wall of metal that is perpendicular to the plate.

Prong Setting

Prong setting is different from bezel setting in that equal parts of the bezel are removed leaving prongs to cover the edge of the diamond. The Tiffany solitaire setting is prong set.

Bead Setting

Bead setting is different from prong setting in that small beads of platinum or gold are pushed over the edge to secure the diamond. Pave setting is bead setting over an expanded area of diamonds.

Channel Setting

This is a procedure where diamonds are set side by side along a groove and are secured by hammering the sides of the channel wall over the edge of the diamonds.

Invisible Setting

Diamonds are set in such a way that no metal is showing. No prongs, beads, channels or bezels are used. Grooves in the diamond girdle are set into a metal framework below the surface giving the illusion of diamonds suspended without any metal around the diamond.

Parts of the Engagement Ring

Head

The head of the ring is the top of the ring, the prongs and setting that hold the diamond.

Shoulder

The shoulder is the top part of the band of the ring next to the head.

Shank

The shank is the lower part of the band of the ring.

Types of Metal

Platinum

Platinum is a metal that comes out of the ground pure and white. It is soft but tough and pliable. It is resistant to knocks and will last for generations.

Gold

Gold is mixed with other metals (alloys) to make it strong enough for jewelry. For instance, 14 karat gold is 14 part gold and 10 part alloys. White gold is yellow gold mixed with certain alloys such as zinc or nickel to make it white. It must be rhodium plated (a type of platinum plating) to cover any hint of yellow. Pure gold is 24 karat and is too soft for jewelry.

Ring Re-sizing

Ring resizing is done when a ring becomes too large or too tight. A ring is too large when it keeps falling off. It is too tight after weight gain, during pregnancy or after eating too much salt. When the ring is consistently too tight, it should be resized to make it more comfortable. Ring resizing does not hurt the ring.

Re-tipping

Retipping is a procedure where prongs have been broken and need to be replaced or retipped with the original metal for the safety of the diamond.

Engagement Ring

An engagement ring is the first ring given to the woman at the time of the proposal. It is typically a diamond engagement ring but the stone could be a colored gemstone as well.

Wedding Band

A wedding band is a band that is given at the time of the wedding. It can be made of platinum, gold or other durable metal.

Eternity Band

An eternity band is a wedding band that contains diamonds or colored gemstones that go all the way around the ring.

Anniversary Band

An anniversary band is a band with diamonds or gemstones that are contained on the top of the ring going half-way around. It can be used as a wedding band or can be given as a gift for an anniversary.

Carat

Carat has to do with the weight of the diamond. One hundred points equal one carat. For instance, a three quarter carat diamond is written .75ct.

Karat

Karat has to do with the measure of the purity of gold, fourteen karat (14kt) or eighteen karat (18kt).

Why Purchase Estate and Vintage Jewelry?

The lure of timeless beauty and sophistication enhance the unique design and rare craftsmanship of a previously owned piece of estate jewelry or vintage jewelry.

When buying Estate and vintage jewelry, you are cutting out the middlemen by not buying from manufacturers where gold and platinum is at a premium. When you find a trusted jeweler that specializes in this kind of jewelry, you have found a treasure. Value comes in many ways. Your jeweler buys from attorneys that handle estates, from auctions, from contacts close and far, and from individuals that come to the store to sell what they don’t need or want anymore.

It’s easy to find jewelry that is priced well and is unique. Once again, your estate jeweler has set up his/her store to carry the unique and one-of-kind. You can find things from as early as the Georgian Period, (1714-1830) to current times. 

Estate jewelry means previously owned jewelry and you have a lot to pick from. From Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco Periods to current times, each offers its unique design. The Georgian Period is known for its design of nature including flowers, birds, feathers and ribbon. It was also know for “en tremblant” where the item is mounted on a spring to make it look like, for example, a butterfly that trembles.

The Victorian Period is known for its flowers and animal themes which were delicate, as well as heavier jewelry made with colorful gemstones like peridot, amethyst, turquoise and garnet to name a few. The Art Nouveau Period is also known for its flowers, scrolls and shapes of women.

The Edwardian Period is known for its use of platinum with bows, scalloped edges and filigree that looked like lace. Art Deco Period is known for its filigree, especially in diamond engagement rings. Synthetic sapphires and emeralds were also used in all kinds of rings especially diamond engagement rings. When you see more modern jewelry, you will notice that it will have a heavier look with more geometric shapes and not quite as much detail. If you purchase designer rings you may get more detail but it won’t be as delicate and light as vintage jewelry.

You’ll find jewelry that is fairly priced, unique and contains finer craftsmanship when you buy estate and vintage jewelry. Nothing beats the flowing designs, for instance, of the Art Nouveau Period. If you are looking for value, uniqueness and craftsmanship, you need look no further. Estate and Vintage jewelry sale for you.

Antique vs. Reproduction

What Should I purchase an antique engagement ring or a reproduction?

If you are looking to purchase an antique looking engagement ring, why not buy the real thing. Nothing matches the delicate workmanship and one of a kind designs.

The most popular diamond engagement rings come from the Victorian era, the Art Nouveau period, the Edwardian period and the Art Deco time period. Actual antique diamond engagement rings from these times will be delicate. And, of course, you will be getting a period piece of one of a kind jewelry. You will not see any duplicates.

Finding a diamond engagement ring from the Victorian Era (1837-1901), can be more difficult to find than other time periods, but when you do they will primarily be made of gold with floral designs, fine scroll work and animal themes.

The Art Nouveau period (1890-1905) produced 14 karat or 18 karat diamond engagement rings with flowing, curvy lines and organic designs such as birds, butterflies, and flowers like poppies, orchids or irises.

Edwardian engagement rings (1901-1914) will be designed primarily in platinum with filigree, bows, honeycomb patterns, the look of flower garland or scalloped edges. Colored gemstones such as synthetic sapphires, natural rubies or emeralds were sometimes used to accent the jewelry design.

The Art Deco period (1920-1935) primarily produced diamond engagement rings in 18 karat or platinum. You can find your ring designed with diamond flecked filigree, which looks like lace work or possibly flowers. During this time period, gemstones such as synthetic sapphires were primarily used, but you can find engagement rings accented with rubies or emeralds as well. Diamond engagement rings during this period and the Edwardian time period can easily be found without any gemstone accents, if that is your preference.

With reproduction engagement rings, you are getting a piece of jewelry that has been made over and over again. It is not one of a kind as in the older time periods. Another thing to take into consideration is the clunky heavy look. You will not find the delicate workmanship of times gone by in new reproduction rings. And finally the new reproduction engagement rings are made by manufacturers that add their price on to the price of the ring. With vintage engagement, rings there is no middle man.

If you are asking for my opinion, the answer would be to purchase the actual vintage ring. You are getting a delicate one of a kind period piece of jewelry without all the tacked on prices of manufacturers. You will find vintage engagement rings at estate jewelry stores such as Gesner Estate Jewelry.

WHY BUY ANTIQUE JEWELRY?

You ask, “Why Buy Antique Jewelry?” Uniqueness is the simple answer. When purchasing antique vintage jewelry which is 50 years old or older, you are acquiring something from another time; something that may be rare and something that is definitely different from what you see in most jewelry stores. Consider perusing an Estate & Antique Jewelry Store, like ours. Estate Jewelry simply means previously owned. You will often come across that special Antique Jewelry find and maybe something from another time period that has specific unique characteristics.

The Victorian Era, c.1837-1901

A ring from the Victorian Era, c.1837-1901, could be in the shape of a serpent, crafted in gold with a center gemstone. Queen Victoria had a ring just like that with an emerald in the center as her engagement ring. 

The Edwardian Era, c. 1901-1914

The Edwardian Era, c. 1901-1914, was known for its delicate workmanship in platinum, the king of metals. Platinum is known for its durability and malleability. It is the metal of preference for Master Jewelers whose skills are needed to make the finest details on a jewelry item, like milgraining, which would look like a row of tiny dots. A diamond engagement ring may have characteristics like garlands, ribbons and lace and decorated with diamonds in the mounting. Fine metal piercings might also be found in a ring from this time period

The Art Nouveau Era, c. 1890-1915

The Art Nouveau Era, c. 1890-1915, was known for its use of designs such as leaves, flowers, bugs and the shape of a woman’s face with flowing hair.  Plique-a-jour was a type of see through enameling that was used in conjunction with the features described above. Yellow gold was more common during that era and it worked beautifully with stones such as aquamarine, peridot, pearls, opals and diamonds

The Art Deco Era, c. 1920-1935

The Art Deco Era, c. 1920-1935, diamond engagement rings were enhanced with meticulous filigree and intricate designs. Platinum was the metal of choice. As with the Edwardian, Victorian and Art Nouveau Era, the Art Deco Era also used hand fabrication vs. casting, into the early 1930’s, to make its most delicate and complicated pieces of jewelry.

The Retro Era, c. 1935-1950

The Retro Era, c. 1935-1950, was more well-known for its jewelry crafted in rose, yellow or green gold. Rings, for instance, were oversized and gemstones that were popular during that time were diamond, aquamarine, topaz, citrine, sapphire and often synthetic ruby

As you can see, antique jewelry is extremely unique and because of that, you may never see two jewelry items alike in your lifetime! To be sure, not many of your friends will have jewelry like yours when you purchase beautiful Antique jewelry! 

Art Deco Engagement Rings – Info to Know before you Buy

Gesner Estate Jewelry provides the finest jewelry at the lowest price possible. We specialize in antique & vintage gold and platinum jewelry from the turn of the 20th century to the late 1930s; however, our inventory of newer pieces in gold and platinum is also unsurpassed. We maintain an inventory of several thousand unique items. Every piece is in wonderful condition and uncommon in design. We do not sell reproduction jewelry or lab-created gems unless it has been very clearly stated in the item’s description.

We are a family-owned firm that has been in business since 1972. We are among the leaders in antique and estate jewelry. We welcome the opportunity to speak with you personally about ourselves and what we do. Please feel free to call us anytime at (727) 586-6000 or email us at gesner@gesner.com

We offer certified appraisal services from our G.I.A. graduate. Graydon Gesner has his Graduate Gemology Degree, Accredited Jewelry Professional Degree, and the G.I.A. Pearl Grading Lab Degree. These studies were accomplished at the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.), located at the Carlsbad, California campus which is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones, and pearls. He was an on-campus student and excelled in all phases of his studies. Out of 11 G.I.A. campus locations worldwide, Carlsbad, California is the G.I.A. World Headquarters that brings students from all over the world. Please call the Tampa store at (813) 282-1008, or email Graydon at graydongems@gmail.com to schedule your appointment to have your jewelry professionally appraised. Graydon’s website can be seen at www.gesnerappraisalservices.com.

Art Deco Engagement Rings

“Pure Art Deco” are the words from our Graduate Gemologist, Graydon Gesner, when describing this fabulous Ruby and Diamond Art Deco Engagement or Fashion ring. ” I love the calibrated rubies, the large European cut diamond, and the geometric design”, he says.

This captivating Art Deco ring, crafted in platinum, features a center 1.25 carat approx. Old European cut diamond with SI1 clarity and J color. It is surrounded, in a diamond shape, with approx. 1.00 carat approx. total weight of Antique Square Cut Natural Red Rubies.  It is further decorated with 1.50 carat approx. total weight of Single and European Cut diamonds. In addition, the gallery is pierced & milgrained and is an impressive and sparkling example of the Roaring 20’s!

Art Deco .73ct. Diamond Antique Engagement Ring Platinum

Wow! What a beauty. This month’s Gemologist Jewelry Pick of the Month is this captivating Antique Diamond Engagement Ring with ” a flowing curved tiered design very indicative of the Art Deco Era”.

This Antique Diamond Engagement Ring features .73ct Apx. European Cut Diamond with fantastic quality, VVS2 clarity, and H color.  A bright, white, scintillating diamond with a very, very slightly included diamond.  You would need an educated eye and a jeweler’s loupe or microscope to see any inclusion.  In addition, there are .50ct Apx. T.W. of Single and Transitional Cut Diamonds with VS2-SI1 clarity and G-H color.  It is crafted in platinum, the king of metals, as you know.  Your very best jewelry is made in platinum or 18 karat gold. You can find this blindingly beautiful Antique Art Deco Diamond Engagement Ring in our Tampa store with a retail price of $7,795.