The 4 C’s – Carat Weight, Color, Clarity and Cut

 When considering your purchase of an antique engagement ring or vintage style engagement rings, there are four things to take into consideration-carat weight, color, clarity and cut.

Carat is a measure of weight for a diamond. The European Cut diamond as compared to a Round Brilliant of the same millimetre size can weigh as much as 10-15% more because of cut.  Most diamonds are under one carat and are measured in points.  One hundred points are equal to one carat, (1.00ct) whereas three-quarters of a carat is equal to, (.75ct).  Diamonds are usually purchased in “magic” numbers according to The Gemological Institute of America.  Those “magic” numbers are .25ct, .50ct, .75ct and 1.00ct. As it relates to size, a 1.00ct engagement ring vs. a .90ct is not discernable to the naked eye, but its cost is considerably more expensive.  When purchasing your diamond ring, just stay under the carat mark and you will save quite a bit of money.

Color is graded from D-F which is colorless to Z which is light yellow.

D-F              Colorless

G-J              Near Colorless

K-M             Faint Yellow

N-Z              Very Light to Light Yellow

After Z        Fancy Yellow

A great place to be when purchasing your diamond is in the Near Colorless range because the eye can hardly differentiate between Colorless to Near Colorless.  Your European Cut vintage style engagement ring can easily go to the M in the color range because the cut of this diamond camouflages its color beautifully and it will face up white.

Clarity ranges from Flawless to highly Imperfect according to The Gemological Institute of America and the grading takes into consideration the size of the inclusion, crystals or blemishes and its location. Grading is done with 10x magnification and assumes it is graded by a trained diamond specialist.  The grading is as follows:

FL                Flawless

IF                 Internally Flawless

VVS             Extremely difficult to see

VS                Slightly difficult to somewhat easy to see

SI                 Easy to see or eye visible

I                   Imperfect diamonds, heavily included and can affect durability

A great place to be all things considered is in the VS to SI1 range.

Cut refers to the faceting and not to shape – oval and princess cut, for example. Basically, when referring to the cut of a diamond, we can focus our thoughts on two different styles, the Round Brilliant and the European Cut diamond. The European Cut diamond, from the 19th century and earlier, is characteristically different from the 20th century Round Brilliant Cut. It has fewer facets and is hand cut in a way that enhances color and gives beautiful brilliance. 

The table of a European Cut is smaller than the Round Brilliant. The crown angles are higher making it heavier on top than the Round Brilliant of the same millimeter size. The thicker girdle is not  faceted. The pavilion is deeper and the culet is open.  It does not come to a point as it does today. It was designed to bring light in from the top and reflect back if looking at the diamond from the top. All of these factors taken into consideration improve the color. The European Cut is very popular now, as the Round Brilliant Cut diamonds cannot replace the unique and romantic antique diamond rings in vintage settings today.

Round Brilliant Cut diamonds were created by Marcel Tolkowsky and are cut to very specific calculations. They are more cone-shaped than the European Cut diamonds and have 58 or more facets.  The table is larger and the girdle, which is the section that separates the table from the pavilion, is faceted. The pavilion is not as high and it does not have a culet.  It comes to a point on the bottom. Polish and symmetry are also taken into consideration and every facet has the potential to change the rays of light giving it a lot of brilliance.

Buy Tips For Vintage Jewelry

 If you would like to purchase a piece of fine vintage jewelry, maybe a vintage engagement ring from the Edwardian period or a vintage brooch from the Art Nouveau period, you need only look for an estate jewelry store for exactly what you are looking for.

Estate jewelry is jewelry that has been previously owned. It could be vintage or contemporary. Vintage jewelry is jewelry that is 50 years old, so that would be from 1950 or before.

Vintage jewelry from the 1940’s or 1950’s is called Retro jewelry. These pieces are often in yellow, pink or green gold with large stone, swirls and or synthetic rubies and natural diamonds.

The Art Deco period from 1920-1935 contains some of the most fascinating jewelry you can find. Engagement rings, vintage brooches and other vintage jewelry were often made in platinum. Vintage engagement rings contained lots of filigree interspersed with delicate small diamonds. The center diamond was always a European cut or old mine cut. You would often time find synthetic sapphires, natural rubies or natural emeralds used as accents.

Brooches were also made with filigree, diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Often time, you can find a brooch that was used as a brooch or as a pendant. The back of the brooch contains a pin that goes just a little past the length of the brooch for use as a brooch and it would also hold a bail that could be flipped up for use as a necklace.

Dangle earrings were also popular during the Art Deco period. They contained diamonds, synthetic sapphires and natural rubies and emeralds. Bracelets had geometric shapes containing European cut diamonds and often time colored stones as accents.

The Art Nouveau period, which is my favorite time period for jewelry, lasted from 1890-1905. Most of the jewelry was made in gold with sensuous flowing lines. The Art Nouveau period created pieces of jewelry art using butterflies or dragonflies in flight, flowers, snakes or bats. This time was also known for using the shapes of a woman or a woman’s head with flowing hair. Plique a jour, a form of enameling, was also used. The gemstones used were pastel in color like moonstone, citrine, peridot and pearls.

These are just some of the vintage time period jewelry you could consider. You could also look for jewelry from the Edwardian period, 1901-1910 or the Victorian period, 1837-1901 as well. There is so much to pick from to add a different little something for every outfit you wear.